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The American Victory Tour
LOCATION:
Black Point, ME |
MESSAGE:
Sometime in July, 2008
I paddled to the southern end of Mooselookmeguntic Lake and shared a campsite. It took me a week to learn to pronounce the name of this lake and two weeks to learn how to spell it.
I spent an entire day unsuccessfully trying to line up a campsite reservation for the July 4th weekend. Now I am winging it.
At Black Point, I shared a primitive site with another camper.
At this point I realized my dates were wrong. I had forgotten that on years ending in a numeral, June only has 30 days. Or, I can just blame it on my wristwatch.
I am not used to wearing a timepiece. Mine has a date indicator on the face. It is an old-fashion watch with hour, minute and second hands and not digital. The watch absolutely believes in the equality of the months and it will always count 31 days.
The wearer, that being me, must persuade it to adjust for shorter months. If I don’t, the watch will credit even February with 31 days.
2008-09-15 18:10:35 est |
LOCATION:
Griffin Island, ME |
MESSAGE:
2 July, 2008
From Rangely State Park, it was 3 miles to Oquossoc Cove. Then I had an easy 1˝ mile portage to Haine Landing and Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Then it was another 3 miles to Griffin Island.
This was an area of the East that was settled very late. It had been the scene of much bloody fighting during the French and Indian War. Robert Rogers, the father of the elite US Army Rangers, passed through this area on the way to attacking the Abenaki Indian camp at St. Francis.
Rogers kept a journal that became the basis for Kenneth Robert’s book “Northwest Passage.” I read the book when I was in high school and only “Moby Dick” had the same staying power with me. It had much to do with my fascination with the outdoors.
Now that I have seen many of the places described, I will have to read it again. I have a new and greater appreciation for the incredible ordeals suffered by the valiant members of that expedition.
The first permanent settler, Luther Hoar, arrived in 1815. He and his companions harvested a crop of potatoes and then cached it in a hole. The following year he arrived with his family only to find that local Indians had plundered his stores.
It was also the home of two of the world’s most famous fly-fisherwomen. Cornelia Thurza Crosby was six-feet tall. She hunted, fished and wrote stories about the Maine outdoors under the name of Fly Rod Crosby. Fly Rod was the first and only known person to bring down a caribou in Maine.
She started a traveling show that included animals, guides, Indians and sporting gear and visited outdoor exhibitions. She was a friend of Annie Oakley and Buffalo Bill Cody and became a featured attraction herself.
In 1897, Fly Rod Crosby became the first registered and licensed Maine guide. Two years later a knee injury ended her outdoor career. She continued to write. Fly Rod died on Armistice Day, 1946, at the age of ninety-two.
People I meet keep assuming that I fish. I have to explain that I am the world’s worst fisherman. Whenever I drop a hook in the water, fish gather from streams miles away so they can point their fins at me and laugh.
I tell the locals that I use the South Philly method of fishing. I hide behind a rock. If a fish swims by, I hit him over the head and take his wallet and his girlfriend, if he has one.
Carrie Gertrude Stevens, was another famous fisherwoman. A housewife with no experience in tying flies, she sat down one day and invented the Gray Ghost Streamer. Less than an hour later she caught a 6 lb, 13 oz brook trout. A record that still stands.
Mrs. Stevens sold thousands of flies to fisherman and created more than 120 different types more than two dozen of which are still popular today.
8 Portages-43.5 miles
2008-09-15 18:06:02 est |
LOCATION:
Rangely State Park, ME |
MESSAGE:
1 July, 2008
Rangely had a very prosperous and upscale feel about it.
The town struck me as a place where the two Maines run smack into each other.
Southern coastal Maine is generally wealthy and liberal. Northern Maine is more hardscrabble and the people are more likely to be conservative and more likely to wear their patriotism on their sleeves.
Rangely is a town where a Range Rover with ski racks on the roof, bike racks on the rear, “Green Peace”, “World Wildlife Fund”, and “Amnesty International” decals on the windows and a “Save the Planet” sticker on the bumper is parked next to a Dodge Power Wagon with oversize tires, a winch mounted on the front bumper, a rifle rack in the rear window, NRA decals, and a “Support Our Troops” ribbon magnet on the fender and a bumper sticker that says “Gun Control means hitting what you aim at”.
If there is tension between the two groups it isn’t evident. If the people on either side are angry or frustrated, they must have found a better way of venting it than taking it out on each other.
There is a grand hotel in the center of town, The Rangely Inn. The inn is a beautiful Victorian building that is being lovingly restored by its owner.
I stayed at the Saddleback Motel. It had also been recently renovated by its owner. So, I luxuriated on a firm new mattress in a spotlessly clean room, then relaxed in a hot tub and cooled off in an indoor pool.
7 Portages- 42 miles
2008-09-15 17:58:52 est |
LOCATION:
Rangely, ME |
MESSAGE:
27 June, 2008
After two nights in Stratton, I began my longest portage yet; 16 miles to Rangely, mostly uphill.
The first day, I stopped at Sue’s hostel, called “The Bunkhouse”. It was in a marvelous old farmhouse with several double rooms. There was also a large group room that could sleep about sixteen in bunk beds.
Sue also provided such niceties as a large-screen TV, a regimental size galley and a comfortable lounge -- all for a price comparable to a low-cost campground.
I don’t know how she does it.
The next morning, I got an early start up the highway. There was a great deal of heavy truck traffic, mostly loggers or dump trucks. In some places there wasn’t much of a shoulder, so I was often forced to pull the canoe into the mud alongside the pavement.
I learned to use my ears as much as my eyes to scan for traffic. I always tried to walk facing traffic. Whenever I approached a blind curve or the crest of a hill, I would listen for traffic coming in the opposite direction.
If there was traffic coming behind me that might blanket the sounds of traffic approaching from ahead, I would wait until there was silence again. If I could hear traffic coming toward me, I pulled as far off the road as I could before continuing. If I couldn’t pull off the road, I just stopped and waited until the approaching vehicle came into sight and I was sure that he could see me.
Whenever traffic was coming from both directions, I pulled off the road. Most drivers drifted into the opposite lane to go around me. I didn’t want to squeeze someone into a head-on collision.
Most drivers were very courteous to me. I want to be certain that I offered just as much courtesy in return. I was the most vulnerable thing out there. In some ways, my vulnerability made me very dangerous.
Drivers might very easily place themselves at risk trying not to hit me.
Dodging traffic, soft shoulders and steep upgrades slowed my progress and made pulling the canoe a bit tedious. I walked six miles when my left knee felt like it was preparing to quit on me. This was the same knee that gave me trouble a couple of seasons before.
Three ladies in a pickup truck offered me a ride to my campsite a mile and a half away. Once again, I gratefully accepted.
At the campsite, I met a family who had reserved their site several weeks in advance. They were holding their annual, two-week long, family reunion, picnic, barbeque and trout fishing extravaganza.
Since the bulk of the family wouldn’t arrive for a couple of days yet, they shared the campsite with me. They also treated me to the catch of the day -- four brook trout fresh out of the river and cooked to perfection.
My third day of the portage was four miles into Rangely and then another mile climb up to my motel.
2008-09-15 17:52:40 est |
LOCATION:
Stratton, ME |
MESSAGE:
22 June, 2008
After launching on Lake Flagstaff, I camped on a small island that contained ruins of the village of Flagstaff.
Flagstaff Village was drowned when the dam was built on the Dead River that created Lake Flagstaff.
It was a six-mile paddle to the town of Stratton and a one mile walk from the takeout.
I spent two nights at the White Wolf Inn. It was clean, cheap and had a very good restaurant.
Stratton lies close to the Appalachian Trail and I met a number of hikers at the hotel and restaurant.
I chatted with one from the Lehigh Valley in eastern Pennsylvania. His trail name is “Silo”. He was walking a 500 mile section of the trail.
Next door to the hotel was the Stratton Motel owned by a lady named Sue. The Stratton is another favorite of hikers. Sue also runs a hostel about 5 miles up the highway.
2008-09-05 16:54:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Flagstaff Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
21 June, 2008
Continuing rain kept the Dead River running high and hard. I began running low on supplies. Weather forecasts called for...
2008-09-05 16:50:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Great Falls, Dead River, ME |
MESSAGE:
18 June, 2008
The continuing heavy rains taught me a new lesson. Mountain rivers are not predictable. Spencer Stream was suppo...
2008-09-05 16:42:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Stream Portage, ME |
MESSAGE:
17 June, 2008
What the portage lacked in distance, it made up for in difficulty. Heavy rains over the past week turned dirt ro...
2008-09-05 16:38:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Dam, ME |
MESSAGE:
16 June, 2008
Camped on a beach at the top of Spencer Dam. According to the Northern Forest Canoe Trail map, the da...
2008-09-05 16:35:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Fish Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
14 June, 2008
Squandered enough time. I think I finally got my “tough” back. I realized I was beginning to whine when talking to mysel...
2008-09-01 20:25:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Fish Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
13 June 2008,
From Spencer POW Camp, it was another two-mile walk to Fish Pond and access to Spencer Lake. A single gentleman owns mos...
2008-09-01 20:22:25 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer POW Camp, ME |
MESSAGE:
11 June, 2008
Another 5 or 6 miles up the Moose River took me to Spencer Rips and my next takeout. I made camp on the ruins of...
2008-09-01 20:19:12 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Rips, ME |
MESSAGE:
9 June, 2008
The morning after I reached Attean Falls, I met another paddler. He was also following the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, b...
2008-09-01 20:11:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Attean Falls, ME |
MESSAGE:
June 8, 2008
From Jackman, I paddled down Big Wood Pond to Attean Pond and into another leg of the Moose River.
The win...
2008-09-01 20:08:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackman, ME |
MESSAGE:
7 June, 2008
On a clear still morning, I left Long Pond Camp and paddled to the head of the lake. I found the mouth of the ...
2008-09-01 20:04:25 est |
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LOCATION:
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MESSAGE:
...
2008-07-31 20:05:53 est |
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LOCATION:
27 May, Long Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
27 May, 2008
I decided to take the canoe straight down the center of the track. I could make better time and not worry about tipping....
2008-07-31 19:52:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackman, ME |
MESSAGE:
30 May, 2008
I spent three days as the guest of Tim and Debbie at Long Pond Camp.
It was another cozy cottage...
2008-07-31 12:31:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Little Brassua Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 26, 2008
In the morning it was raining, cold and windy. I paddled back downstream and back on to the lake to a spot wh...
2008-07-19 14:15:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Moose River, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 25, 2008
The warm weather arrived on Sunday. I crossed Brassua Lake, then Little Brassua and entered the next leg of t...
2008-07-19 14:13:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Brassua Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 24, 2008
Weather forecasters are men and women with expensive haircuts and more than the standard issue of teeth. Thei...
2008-07-19 14:13:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Rockwood, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 21, 2008
This trip is turning into a slow crawl. Planned on leaving on the 20th but the weather was still ba...
2008-07-07 12:59:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Rockwood, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 19, 2008
Have reached the exit of Moosehead Lake. Tomorrow morning, I will tackle the Moose River, my first upstream run.
...
2008-07-07 12:57:32 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 17, 2008
I woke up freezing. A light wind blew out of the west and it was cold.
There were only ripples ...
2008-07-07 12:54:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 16,2008
Winter has returned. The skies cleared and a slight drop in the winds lured me out on the lake. About halfway across, a li...
2008-07-07 12:52:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
15 May, 2008
The weather that I laid up for yesterday, arrived today. The South wind stiffened and unfriendly clouds darkened the earl...
2008-07-07 12:50:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 14, 2008
Spent my first night out on my own.
Broke down my camp yesterday and evicted all the six an...
2008-06-07 18:33:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 10, 2008
Another cold front. I haven’t even gotten underway and I am already experiencing equipment problems.
...
2008-06-07 18:28:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 7, 2008
Cold front came through. God always knows where to find me.
Will leave on Monday. Mr. Reeves...
2008-06-07 18:26:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Chesuncook, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 4, 2008
I have gone from late spring to mid-winter. Nighttime temperatures are dropping into the 20's.
I brought just enough...
2008-06-05 12:56:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 1, 2008
Cathy and I finally got underway. When we arrived in Maine, and were heading north to Fort Kent, we were still considering ...
2008-06-05 12:53:28 est |
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LOCATION:
T |
MESSAGE:
As I sit here in Tennessee, watching weather reports and repacking my gear for the fifty-third time, I feel the self-doubt creeping over me.
2008-04-28 17:15:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Tennessee |
MESSAGE:
I had planned to launch a few days after Easter. Unfortunately, Maine has gone through one of its coldest winters on record. Unless I wanted to launch...
2008-03-29 12:10:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Eastport, ME |
MESSAGE:
Before starting out in the summer of ’06, I had to upgrade some equipment.
My U.S. Marine Corps tent was pretty badly worn. I replac...
2008-03-25 11:15:31 est |
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LOCATION:
plymouth, Mass |
MESSAGE:
To all of you who have been following my journey, forgive me for the long absence from the keyboard. I have no excuse to offer except procrastination...
2008-03-10 16:12:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Beach Haven, NJ, 6/1/05 |
MESSAGE:
The tide was out when I broke camp. About a hundred
yards of mud flats separated me from the water.
I had to pull all the gear o...
2005-06-19 18:41:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Brigantine, NJ, 5/31/05 |
MESSAGE:
From Trumps, I bounced across the choppy Absecon inlet
to the town of Brigantine and loaded up with supplies.
I had rowed fifteen miles ...
2005-06-19 18:40:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Atlantic City, NJ, 5/30/05 |
MESSAGE:
It is Memorial Day. I have been camping on landfills,
under bridges and on piles of dredge spoil. I am
ready for a hotel.
...
2005-06-19 18:38:42 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May Courthouse, NJ, 5/27/05 |
MESSAGE:
Progress has been slow and campsites scarce. I am
sleeping in a bed again. I pulled into the Avalon
Point Marina. Once again, I was trea...
2005-06-19 18:37:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May, NJ, 5/23/05 |
MESSAGE:
Hutch's Marina allowed me to keep my canoe on their
property during my stay in Cape May. The young lady at
the desk ran herself ragged t...
2005-06-19 18:35:20 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May, NJ, May 22, 2005 |
MESSAGE:
I am finally warm and dry in a motel room.
Yesterday at Moores Beach, the storm had continued through the day.
A ranger...
2005-06-19 18:31:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Moores Beach, NJ, 5/20/05 |
MESSAGE:
 As I write this, I am lying in my tent just 15 miles north of the Cape May Canal. From the start of this year, I have been seeing a lot of simila...
2005-06-03 20:48:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Salem, NJ, 5/15/05 |
MESSAGE:
After leaving Essington, I crossed the Delaware and made a short hop to Bridgeton, NJ. The people at Sub Sea Inc. let me keep my boat there. They even...
2005-06-03 20:44:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Essington, PA, 5/11/05 |
MESSAGE:
It took me two days to reach Essington from Delaware City. At the West End Boat Club I was treated like visiting royalty.
Â
The club wa...
2005-06-03 20:42:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Delaware City, DE, 5/8/05 |
MESSAGE:
I returned to the canoe early Sunday morning. The tide was in full flood and running hard. Rich Ostlander gave me his card and suggested I put in at t...
2005-06-03 20:40:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesapeake City, MD, 5/6/05 |
MESSAGE:
After a long night of shivering in the tent, I was slow getting started. A cold north wind was blowing a wicked chop down the Elk River. Even with a f...
2005-06-03 20:38:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesterton, MD 5/1/05 |
MESSAGE:
Cathy dropped me off at the Great Oak Landing & Lodge. A new season begins.
 Â
The Oak Landing Marina is located near Chesterton, Mary...
2005-05-15 16:13:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Sassafras River, MD 5/3/05 |
MESSAGE:
The next day was clear and crisp. There was chilly wind and a light chop. As I came to the Sassafras River, a heavy cloud cover came in and it starte...
2005-05-15 16:07:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Elk Neck State Park, MD 5/5/05 |
MESSAGE:
The sun and wind rose together. I crossed the Sassafras and continued up past Turkey Point. Turkey Point marks the confluence of the Susquehanna and E...
2005-05-15 16:05:13 est |
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LOCATION:
In Memoriam |
MESSAGE:
After a decade-and-a-half-long battle, the world’s greatest canoeist succumbed to cancer. I had the opportunity to meet with Verlen once.
2005-04-28 21:00:27 est |
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LOCATION:
An Apology |
MESSAGE:
I would like to apologize to my readers for the long delay in the journal updates. I became rather distracted in the off-season. Cathy and I became th...
2005-04-28 20:55:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Philadelphia, PA July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next day, Cathy and I pulled the boat and headed back to Tennessee. I will spend the winter repairing my back. I will also modify the canoe and fr...
2005-04-28 20:53:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Philadelphia, PA July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Having lost my weather window because of the spill, I rowed into Baltimore. I put the boat up at a marina in the inner harbor and checked into a motel...
2005-04-28 20:51:22 est |
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LOCATION:
Baltimore, MD July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I had talked to a producer for HDTV who wanted to film me arriving in Philly. This created a logistical problem. The high definition cameras are few i...
2005-04-28 20:47:41 est |
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LOCATION:
Potomac River July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I followed the north shore going downriver. This put me in Maryland, my 10th state. Finding campsites on the Maryland side was even harder than on the...
2005-04-28 19:42:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Washington D.C. June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I arrived at the Capitol with no fanfare. It was rather anticlimactic after the long slog upriver. I notified the local press and media of my arrival ...
2005-04-28 19:41:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Potomac River, June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
From Mathews County, I continued up the Chesapeake. Years ago, I kept a sailboat on the bay. It seemed as if I could never find enough wind.
2005-04-28 19:39:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Mathews County, VA June,2004 |
MESSAGE:
It was not with great regret that I departed what had once been a long anticipated destination. I left early in the morning from Norfolk, one of the w...
2005-04-28 19:38:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Norfolk, VA< June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
For years, when I worked on tugs and barges, the boats would arrive at Norfolk. There is a marina and hotel on the Portsmouth side of the Elizabeth Ri...
2005-04-28 19:35:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Great Dismal Swamp, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The Great Dismal Swamp lies on the Virginia/North Carolina border. After the area was surveyed by William Byrd, George Washington purchased 20,000 acr...
2005-04-28 19:34:14 est |
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LOCATION:
Elizabeth City, NC June, 20004 |
MESSAGE:
After crossing the Albemarle, I had returned to civilization and noise. I had been trying to replicate the experience on the Alligator River of perfec...
2005-04-27 14:09:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Albemarle Sound, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next day broke hot and clear with a bit of a breeze. I reached the Alligator River Highway Bridge. There was a Marina at the west end of the bridg...
2005-04-26 14:07:34 est |
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LOCATION:
Albemarle Sound, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
This was a day I had not been looking forward to. I was crossing the sound. The sound had a reputation for being unkind to small boats.
...
2005-04-26 14:07:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator River May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
From the canal, I entered the Alligator River. The river ran east a short distance and then turned north where it widened to more than two miles acros...
2005-04-23 11:33:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator-Pungo Canal May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next morning, I passed several good and easily accessible campsites less than a mile from where I had spent the night.
My next cam...
2005-04-23 11:24:25 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator-Pungo Canal May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I made a late-in-the-day launch following many fond farewells from the kind people of Bel Haven and hugs and kisses from my bride. Lots of hugs and k...
2005-04-22 00:20:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
I once again found myself at the tender mercies of North Carolina hospitality. I made arrangements to keep my canoe at the boatyard in Bel Haven. I ha...
2005-04-22 00:16:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
I once again found myself at the tender mercies of North Carolina hospitality. I made arrangements to keep my canoe at the boatyard in Bel Haven. I ha...
2005-04-22 00:08:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Belhaven, NC, May 20, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners specialize in wooden boat repair...very fine w...
2004-09-01 17:05:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC, May 18, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
It took me four days to go from Oriental to Bel Haven. My stomach has straightened out but my lower back is giving me a lot of complaints.
2004-06-03 18:19:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Oriental, NC, May 14, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Crossed the Neuse River in a flat calm. I landed on a small beach behind the docks at The Oriental Harbor Marina. The people seem to just keep getting...
2004-06-03 18:05:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Neuse River, NC, May 13, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Best campsite yet. Much of the woods had been cleared for development, right down to the bare sand. Just enough trees left to pr...
2004-06-03 18:02:44 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
Decided to take an extended layover in Bel Haven. Cathy is supposed to pick me later in the week and we will go to DC for Rolling Thunder, a Viet Nam...
2004-05-22 23:37:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Adam’s Creek, NC, May 12, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
My stomach kept me awake most of the night and I missed the last of the morning tide. I decided to make it another short day.
...
2004-05-20 16:19:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile 195, ICW, May 11, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I did another short day. I am tiring too easily. I must be in worse shape than I thought. If the rowing was tough, ma...
2004-05-20 16:18:47 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:41:33 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:39:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:37:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Morehead City, North Carolina, May 10, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I rowed 16 miles today. I am still struggling. Pulled into Spooner’s Creek Marina and, although the people were very nice, the d...
2004-05-16 17:24:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Emerald Isle, North Carolina, May 9, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Because of sunburn, back pain and powerboats, I decided to take Sunday off.
When I arrived on this island, I was greeted by a sign that...
2004-05-16 17:22:36 est |
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LOCATION:
Bear Inlet, NC, May 8, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I got underway early. I found myself engaged in a number of conversations with people on shore and in other boats. A light breez...
2004-05-11 08:01:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Camp LeJeune, NC, May 7, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Departure Day. I got an early start and left at the crack of noon. As usual on departure day, my canoe was overloaded. &nbs...
2004-05-11 07:59:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Eastern Tennessee, May 5, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
A brand new canoe is sitting in my garage. It is sleek and sexy. Cathy painted red, white and blue bunting across the bow and she lettered ...
2004-05-05 08:38:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Lansing, MI |
MESSAGE:
After a brief visit with a couple of family members, I saw my brother Teddy, his wife Janice and my sister, Stephanie. I had hoped to see my sister, F...
2004-02-11 15:12:15 est |
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LOCATION:
USMC Ccamp Lejeune, NC |
MESSAGE:
We moved to Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base. Our site was just off the beach, behind a wall of sand dunes. I was interviewed by two sharp young marines...
2004-02-11 15:09:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Oak Island, NC |
MESSAGE:
I crossed the Little River Inlet into North Carolina, my eighth state. I was closing in on three thousand miles. It seemed I wasn’t going to reach tha...
2004-02-11 15:06:34 est |
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LOCATION:
Myrtle Beach, SC |
MESSAGE:
The ICW passed through a canal that connected the Waccamaw with the Little River. It ran along the west side of Myrtle Beach.
I left t...
2003-09-09 21:13:17 est |
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LOCATION:
Waccamaw River, SC. |
MESSAGE:
Our next move was to the Huntington Beach State Park. It was a large and beautiful park that was packed with amenities and things to do. There were sw...
2003-09-08 14:03:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Francis Marion National Forest, SC |
MESSAGE:
I rowed the length of Wadmalaw Sound to the Stono River. With fair winds and tides, I felt as if I were nearly airborne. The open waters of the sound ...
2003-09-07 15:09:41 est |
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LOCATION:
Charlesron, SC |
MESSAGE:
From Beaufort, we moved to a campsite near Charleston South Carolina. If our last campground was a model of attention to detail this gave the impressi...
2003-08-30 14:45:09 est |
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LOCATION:
Beaufort, SC |
MESSAGE:
We moved from Hilton Head to Beaufort, South Carolina. Beaufort is a small waterfront city. Like many of the towns we have visited along the southeast...
2003-08-27 11:55:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Hilton Head, SC |
MESSAGE:
Cathy next moved us to a very upscale campground on Hilton Head Island. From Savannah, the ICW ran alongside the western shore of Dafuskie Island and ...
2003-08-23 13:08:01 est |
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LOCATION:
Savannah, GA |
MESSAGE:
Fort Stewart was our base while in the Savannah area. Fort Stewart is the home of the Third Infantry Division. The Third has been deployed to Iraq. Se...
2003-08-13 15:20:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Brunswick, Ga |
MESSAGE:
We crossed into Georgia in time for Independence Day. Our campsite was just outside Brunswick, Georgia, near Jekyll Island. Also located nearby, was a...
2003-08-07 14:36:03 est |
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LOCATION:
Jekyll Island, FL |
MESSAGE:
I had a long jump from Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island to Jekyll Island and I planned on spending at least one night camping out.
...
2003-08-07 14:33:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Mayport, FL |
MESSAGE:
I was coming to the end of my long odyssey around the state of Florida. We moved camp to the Mayport Naval Station near Jacksonville.
...
2003-08-07 14:27:00 est |
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LOCATION:
St. Augustine, FL |
MESSAGE:
It had been a particularly pleasant day of rowing. The sun had been a bit softer and the seas smoother; the traffic almost non-existent. I ...
2003-08-07 14:24:45 est |
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LOCATION:
daytona, Fl |
MESSAGE:
The ICW left the Indian River at Titusville and crossed through the Haulover Canal into the Mosquito Lagoon. In the Haulover Canal, I had my closest l...
2003-08-07 14:21:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
By morning, my right shin had mostly stopped leaking blood. I covered the wound with a waterproof bandage and set out. My leg, which hadn’t hurt...
2003-08-07 14:18:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
The ICW left the Indian River at Titusville and crossed through the Haulover Canal into the Mosquito Lagoon. In the Haulover Canal, I had my closest l...
2003-07-26 12:57:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
By morning, my right shin had mostly stopped leaking blood. I covered the wound with a waterproof bandage and set out. My leg, which hadn’t hurt all n...
2003-07-26 12:55:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB |
MESSAGE:
I left the Indian River and entered the Banana River which ran alongside Patrick AFB. The Banana River is separated from the Indian by Merritt Island....
2003-07-26 12:52:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB |
MESSAGE:
Patrick AFB is located a few miles south of Cape Canaveral. That Sunday, a rocket with a Mars mission was scheduled to be launched. Cathy and I visite...
2003-07-26 12:50:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB, |
MESSAGE:
The relatively open water of Lake Worth gave me no problems and actually provided a bit of respite from the wakes of the power boats. I avoided the ma...
2003-07-26 12:47:56 est |
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LOCATION:
West Palm Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
While rowing along one day, I did some mathematics in my head. I was roughly 1500 miles from New York. With more than seventy days of rowing to go, ev...
2003-07-14 16:43:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Boca Raton, FL |
MESSAGE:
My vacation to DC cost me a week of rowing time. I decided to make up for it by breaking one of my own rules and rowing on a weekend. ...
2003-07-14 16:40:36 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-07-14 12:01:05 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-07-14 11:59:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL. |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
We took a break after reaching Key West. It was nearly time for Rolling Thunder, the Viet Nam Veterans’ Rally held ...
2003-06-25 16:04:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Key Largo, FL. |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
After more than a year of anticipating my arrival here, a year of fighting wind and sea, a year of searing heat and bitter col...
2003-06-25 16:02:28 est |
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LOCATION:
So. Miami, FL |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
If driving around Miami was an ordeal, rowing was anti-climatic. I never ran into the extremely heavy boat traffic I expected....
2003-06-11 12:56:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
Cathy had found a campground on the New River. It was the Yacht Haven Campground and Marina. I was interviewed there by report...
2003-06-11 12:50:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
The charts showed three canals going from Lake Okeechobee to the Miami-Ft.
Lauderdale area. After talking to as many ...
2003-06-11 12:30:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Belle Glade, Fl |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
Cathy had found a campground on Lake Okeechobee. It was a county park located on Torry Island on the south shore of the lake...
2003-06-11 12:15:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Okeechobee, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 2003
I continued up the river toward Lake Okeechobee. There was another lock at Ortona. This time I was allowed to lock through....
2003-05-30 12:34:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Labelle, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 2003
At its mouth, the Calloosahatchie River was broad from one and a half to nearly two miles wide. There were a series of narr...
2003-05-30 12:32:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape Coral, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 20003
We relaunched the canoe from a marina at the end of Tortuga Road. I came out of Jug Creek through Shell Pass and turned we...
2003-05-19 13:26:54 est |
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LOCATION:
Big Pine Island, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
I was nearly finished with the west coast of Florida. Cathy moved the camp to Big Pine Island at the southern end of Charlot...
2003-05-19 13:22:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Venice, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
Our next campsite was at the Oscar Sherer State Park In Venice, FL. While Cathy moved the camp, I continued down ...
2003-05-18 12:01:17 est |
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LOCATION:
MacDill AFB, Tampa, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 1, 2003
MacDill AFB II
I put the boat in on the east end of the Cross Bayou. This put me at the northwestern
...
2003-05-07 13:51:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Tampa, FL |
MESSAGE:
The Tampa-St. Petersburg area is the largest metropolitan center I have arrived at so far. Tampa and St. Petersburg lie across Tampa B...
2003-05-07 13:45:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Tarpon Springs, FL |
MESSAGE:
ur next campsite was at Tarpon Springs. This town is America’s sponge fishing capital. The people of Greek descent who came here to harvest the vast s...
2003-04-26 14:21:47 est |
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LOCATION:
Hudson, FL |
MESSAGE:
Cathy moved the camp to the Winter Haven RV Park in Hudson, FL. Rather than find a new campground every night, we had decided that ...
2003-04-26 14:19:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Chassahowitzka, FL |
MESSAGE:
I continued on the canoe trail to the Chassahowitzka River. It was a peaceful and beautiful ride through salt marshes and tidal swamps. The co...
2003-04-26 14:15:54 est |
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LOCATION:
March 25, 2003 Chassahowitzka. FL |
MESSAGE:
Another day was spent winding down the “Nature Coast Canoe Trail”.
The wind had laid down; it was my best day yet for rowing. I turned into the...
2003-04-10 11:52:09 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-04-10 10:37:08 est |
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LOCATION:
March 24, 2003 Homosassa, FL |
MESSAGE:
Tom, the manager of the Encore park supplied me with a map of a canoe trail that would allow me to cover the distance from Crystal River to Chassahowi...
2003-04-10 10:35:18 est |
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LOCATION:
March 19, 2003 Crystal River, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning, I untied from the trees and began finding my way back through the labyrinth of waterways to the open Gulf. The wind had died and in t...
2003-04-10 10:32:45 est |
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LOCATION:
March 18, 2003 Crystal River, Fl |
MESSAGE:
After about an hour of slogging though the mud, I finally broke free into the Gulf of Mexico. The boat felt light and fast as I rowed through light w...
2003-04-09 10:39:41 est |
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LOCATION:
March 17, 2003 Cedar Key, Fl |
MESSAGE:
We had finally returned to Cedar Key. It was time to resume the journey.
I was interviewed by Maureen Landress for the "Cedar Key Ne...
2003-04-05 10:42:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
Our last stop before Cedar Key was the Old Pavilion RV Park in Keaton Beach. Spiridon Aberjeris and his mother, Lynn, were my most gracious hosts. Thi...
2003-04-05 10:26:20 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
During these times of conflict, I am reminded of the word of a patriot who lived two centuries ago.
He was a citizen of England and was...
2003-04-05 10:03:42 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, Fl. |
MESSAGE:
March 2003
Finally, it was time to go to Panama City to pick up my new FrontRower. It was early evening when we arrived at the home of...
2003-03-31 15:57:55 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
For the past several months, the press has been lost in a Bacchanalian orgy, heaping criticism and derision on the current administration while drunk...
2003-03-31 15:53:54 est |
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LOCATION:
Pensacola, FL |
MESSAGE:
One of my favorite towns was Bay St. Louis, Mississippi. We camped at the Waveland State park and dropped in at the yacht club in the morning. The Wav...
2003-03-31 15:50:44 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
A question I am often asked as I row by people standing on the banks is “Do you have a motor for that thing?”
My smiling reply is inva...
2003-03-31 15:45:06 est |
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LOCATION:
Harvey, LA |
MESSAGE:
March 2003
It had been nearly a year since I had last seen Gracie O’Malley. She had been my companion when I first started on my ventu...
2003-03-31 15:42:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Ellender, LA |
MESSAGE:
March, 2003
The Intracoastal Park is just a short distance across the Louisiana state line from Texas. It is the place where...
2003-03-25 12:31:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston, TX |
MESSAGE:
February, 2003
By late February, I was chomping at the bit. The perimeters of Port Aransas seemed to be shrinking by the day...
2003-03-25 12:12:59 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-02-07 15:11:45 est |
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LOCATION:
Paradise |
MESSAGE:
In Gainesville, I boarded one of those great contributors to the sum of human pain and misery known as a Greyhound Bus. It took me two days to backtr...
2002-10-03 12:08:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Cedar Key, Fl |
MESSAGE:
From Suwanee, I travelled upriver. It was raining as I left, with a pronounced threat of thunderstorms. At the point where the river split into two b...
2002-10-03 11:12:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Suwanee Fl. |
MESSAGE:
Suwanee, Fl
With no tent, I was required to draw upon my resourcefulness to build a shelter. I stretched a line between two posts. I t...
2002-10-03 08:50:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Horseshoe Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I left my tent that morning to find that the air boaters had blown my canoe up unto the rocks. My flagstaff was bent and the flag was lying in the mu...
2002-09-30 08:41:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Cow Bayou Fl. |
MESSAGE:
It was a long jump from Steinhatchee to Horseshoe Beach. I couldn’t find any likely camping spots on the chart. I set off hoping for the best but pep...
2002-09-30 08:33:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Cow Bayou, Fl. |
MESSAGE:
Cow Bayou, FL
It was a long jump from Steinhatchee to Horseshoe Beach. I couldn’t find any likely camping spots on the chart. I set of...
2002-09-30 08:30:23 est |
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LOCATION:
Steinhatchee Fl. |
MESSAGE:
The afternoon thunderstorms continued to arrive in the mornings and last all day. I made my way to Steinhatchee, Fl. There was another RV par...
2002-09-30 08:28:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I contacted the builder of my rowing machine, Ron Rantilla, and explained my problem. He shipped me replacement parts as well as a set of the new han...
2002-09-07 21:10:06 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I left Adam’s Beach to head for Keaton Beach. The morning sunlight refracted into a complete rainbow that stretched its legs across the western sky. ...
2002-09-05 13:18:17 est |
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LOCATION:
Adams Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
Rock Island is a small piece of land with a copse of scrub oak and palms covering one end. It provided a sheltered campsite. I needed it.
2002-09-04 16:57:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Rock Island FL. |
MESSAGE:
Heading down the Econfina River, I quickly discovered my repair didn’t hold. Another solution would have to be found.
I felt re-energ...
2002-09-04 15:30:09 est |
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LOCATION:
Econfina River, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning, I found I was camped illegally. I guess I had experienced one of those very happy days when all the officials had chosen not to see...
2002-09-04 15:16:49 est |
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LOCATION:
St George Sound, FL |
MESSAGE:
Underway again, I left Carrabelle on the 4th of July. I had only gone a couple of mile before towering thunderheads persuaded me to make camp....
2002-08-11 18:31:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Aucilla River, FL |
MESSAGE:
Fear is a problem and problems have solutions. Fear is caused by ignorance. The way to conquer it is through knowledge.
If Flo...
2002-08-11 18:25:18 est |
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LOCATION:
St Mark’s Light, FL |
MESSAGE:
Once again, I had a late start and early thunderstorms forced me to seek shelter after only a few miles.
I camped at the mouth...
2002-08-11 18:19:51 est |
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LOCATION:
St. Mark |
MESSAGE:
A long day's rowing took me from Panacea to St Mark. Although the town is only a short distance from Tallahassee, it shows no sign of ...
2002-08-02 18:43:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Panacea, FL |
MESSAGE:
I woke up early and broke camp with little sleep. Someone set off fireworks for about an hour after dark.
My camp was n...
2002-08-02 18:41:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Panacea, FL |
MESSAGE:
I crossed the mouth of Alligator Bay and rowe...
2002-08-02 18:34:07 est |
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LOCATION:
Turkey Point, FL. |
MESSAGE:
Heavy rain delayed my departure in the morning. When I finally got underway, I felt sluggish and clumsy.
I hadn't done any ser...
2002-08-02 18:26:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL |
MESSAGE:
I spent my last full day in Carrabelle. First, I brought the website up to date. Then I went to visit Eric at Marine Diesel. I was told, by reliable s...
2002-07-11 22:32:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL. |
MESSAGE:
In Carrabelle, there is a brand new library which allowed me virtually unlimited access to a computer. I am able to bring the website up to date.
2002-07-11 22:28:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL. |
MESSAGE:
Carrabelle is a small waterfront community. It is not as trendy as Apalachicola and I believe quite a bit less expensive.
The Harbor Master at...
2002-07-11 22:26:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Yent Bayou, FL |
MESSAGE:
I continued eastward down St George’s Sound in near perfect conditions, a light northeast wind and almost dead- calm seas. I think Cathy brought...
2002-07-11 22:24:19 est |
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LOCATION:
East Point Fl. |
MESSAGE:
With my makeshift replacement oar blade, I resumed my journey. I crossed Apalachicola Bay to East Point and rounded into St. George Sound.
I d...
2002-07-11 22:21:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola, FL |
MESSAGE:
I drove, with Cathy, back to Panama City, so she could catch her bus.
Returning alone to Apalachicola was the hardest thing I have don...
2002-07-10 09:09:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola FL. |
MESSAGE:
Apalachicola is a beautifully restored town with an actual working waterfront.
I still needed to make a replacement oar blade. We went to the A...
2002-07-10 09:06:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola River, FL |
MESSAGE:
We traveled the length of Lake Wicomico and entered the Apalachicola River. A large sport fisherman came up on us. He immediately cut his speed and st...
2002-07-10 09:03:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Wimico, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning we went into town for breakfast. I bought Cathy a small bouquet to replace the rose that I had given her at the bus station.
Lea...
2002-07-10 09:00:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Wimico, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning we went into town for breakfast. I bought Cathy a small bouquet to replace the rose that I had given her at the bus station.
Lea...
2002-07-10 08:59:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Port St. Joe, FL |
MESSAGE:
Since we were ahead of schedule, we made a side trip to Port St. Joe. I was glad we did. A half-mile into the cut, a bald eagle flew out in front of u...
2002-07-08 13:51:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackson River, FL |
MESSAGE:
The third day we entered the sheltered water of the ICW canals. We were following the same routine. Cathy rowed first until I thought she had had enou...
2002-07-08 13:47:20 est |
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LOCATION:
East Bay, FL |
MESSAGE:
The next morning, I woke at daybreak and began clearing camp while Cathy slept.
She woke very early and pitched in to help. I let her r...
2002-07-08 13:40:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, FL |
MESSAGE:
Finally, it was time to go to the bus station and meet Cathy. Despite a grueling 18 hour trip, she wore her patented, brighter-than-sunshine smile. We...
2002-07-05 16:55:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, FL |
MESSAGE:
I rowed hard to reach Panama City. I knew I had planned a fairly soft schedule for Cathy’s portion and could rest up then.
My campsite was abou...
2002-07-05 16:50:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
I was supposed to pick up a passenger in Panama City, a beautiful, intelligent and vivacious redhead by the name of Kelley.
Unfortunately she h...
2002-07-05 16:47:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
I did an inventory of the gear I had with me. I found a floating cushion and a paddle. My rowing machine was lashed to the boat. I rolled it over and ...
2002-07-05 16:44:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
A south wind was blowing when I left the park. Ahead of me lay 17 miles of Choctawhatchee Bay and no good options.
I could follow the north sho...
2002-07-03 15:36:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft Walton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I rowed into the Ft. Walton Beach Yacht Club, where I was turned away by the club manager.
One of the members told me of a beautiful s...
2002-07-03 15:30:33 est |
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LOCATION:
Pensacola, FL |
MESSAGE:
After crossing Perdido Bay, I was in Florida. I fell instantly in love with the water. Pure white sand shone through crystal clear water under a deep ...
2002-06-28 23:30:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Perdido Bay, AL |
MESSAGE:
After a day of uneventful rowing, I was nearing Florida. (The notes for this portion of the trip were lost, so I may have events out of seq...
2002-06-28 23:28:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile, AL |
MESSAGE:
On this day, I would leave Mobile Bay. My chart for the area had melted, so I was reduced to navigating by a large-scale roadmap. It looked as if all ...
2002-06-28 23:25:12 est |
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LOCATION:
ICW AL. |
MESSAGE:
It was fairly calm when I left Fairhope in the predawn light. I had to backtrack the three mi. to the hotel before I could start seeing n...
2002-06-25 15:35:20 est |
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LOCATION:
Fairhope AL. |
MESSAGE:
The wind had picked up for the morning passage. I took advantage of the lee afforded by the south shore of the island. As I cleared the eastern end a...
2002-06-25 11:56:32 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile Bay |
MESSAGE:
I laid up through a day of beautiful weather. I felt guilty not rowing, but I didn't want to tackle Mobile Bay in less than I00% condition...
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